Heads-Up: How To Make Horse-Friendly Choices in Egypt

And one key site to avoid.

Ellie Baker
3 min readMar 16, 2020
Photo from Hermione’s Knapsack.

“I’ll give you another $200,” said the Egyptian tour guide to the horse cart drivers at Edfu. “But on a condition: you don’t whip the horses.”

The situation at the Temple of Horus in Edfu in is unique in two ways. One, the local carriage drivers have mafia-style monopolised the route from the cruise ships to the temple. This means tourists’ only option is to ride ‘hantoor’ (horse and cart). Two, the cart horses are consistently mistreated.

“I’ve tried to work with them, believe me,” the guide explained to us. We had remained on the Nile River cruise boat while other tour groups left to visit the Edfu temple. “But I had no choice in the end.”

Horses at Edfu, courtesy of hkskyline. This photo is from 2010, and apparently not much has changed.

Ever since his failed bargain with the hantoor driver, the guide and his tour company have refused to make Edfu a destination in their Egypt tours. The guide started a Facebook campaign and now several other tour companies also avoid the temple site. But does it make any difference to the horses? Hold that thought.

We Don’t Have to Ban the Hantoor

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Ellie Baker
Ellie Baker

Written by Ellie Baker

I’m a fan of new perspectives, and hilarity. And birds. I hope my writing makes your day a bit weirder.

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